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Normal
route
via the Nepalese face
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| S |
Summit |
.8850m
.29,035' |
Roof
of the world
May 5, 1999 |
| IV |
Camp
IV |
.8000m |
South
Col |
| III |
Camp
III |
.7400m |
On
the Lhotse face |
| II |
Camp
II |
.6500m |
In
the Western Cwm |
| I |
Camp
I |
.6100m |
Above
the Icefall |
| B |
Base
camp |
.5400m |
On
the glacial moraine |
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Click
on the camps to see a picture |
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| Expedition
1999
Calendar of climbs
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| "Here
I go again... Once again,
that sense of adventure is rising in me. It is growing
faster all the time, and ber than I expected. Once again,
I can feel the challenge seizing me and pushing me on.
When I was young, I used to look up to the top of the
hill and wonder how far I could see from the top. Well,
I'm bigger now -- but so is the hill!
I thought that the tightening
throat that comes with the final preparations would
disappear with experience. This time I had a somewhat
more relaxed and calm environment to prepare my backpack.
I was sure I would sleep better, that I would take the
time to water my plants and empty my refrigerator before
leaving. But no, it's not that way. Once again I'm running
here and there, talking too much and too fast, forgetting
to feed the parking meter and delaying my appointments.
But once again, I'm experiencing all the pleasure of
leaving.
Leaving to go far, far away,
leaving to scale new heights, leaving to come back again."
Bernard |
|
The excerpts from the expedition
log were written by Nathalie
Tremblay, Bernard's partner and constant
companion, who co-ordinated the expedition from
the Base Camp at the foot of Everest. Every
possible tool was used to capture Bernard's
and Dorjee's ascent to the roof of the world
as faithfully as possible: notebook, sketchpad,
camera, videocamera, tape recorder, walkie-talkie
and satellite telephone... |
 |
|
Nathalie was the first
person to learn of the team's success. On
May 5, 1999, at 10 minutes after noon, Dorjee cried
into the walkie-talkie: "Nathalie, Nathalie, Summit,
Summit, Summit!!!"
|
|
|
|
| Summary of events
from the beginning
|
|
22.03.99
Monday |
WE'RE
OFF AGAIN!
As you doubtless know by now, Bernard is making
a second attempt to climb Everest.
This time, he will be making a try in the spring,
when statistically the weather is more favourable.
Still, who can say? We will be going with a
very small team this time. I will be accompanying
Bernard, of course, and like the last time,
I will be spending my days handling communications,
photos, films... and sharing every moment with
Bernard. His climbing companion is Dorjee Fulelee
Sherpa. Bernard met Dorjee on his first attempt,
and they often climbed together. Since 1997,
they have been corresponding regularly. He is
a very, very experienced climber, a sensitive
fellow, a friend. The rest of the team consists
of a cook and one of Dorjee's friends. There
are lots of expeditions at the Base Camp, many
more climbers than in 97. The route remains
the same, that is up the Nepalese face with
a Base Camp and four high-altitude camps. It
makes things easier for Bernard to know a large
part of the route already, but the unexpected
remains the greatest danger.
Once again, many companies are supporting Bernard,
and he thanks them all. Every expedition calls
for enormous precision and meticulous preparation.
Everything counts, right down to the smallest
detail. It may be light, but it all adds up
to 200 kilos of essential equipment! It is as
though all you sponsors, suppliers and partners
have each contributed a section of rope; together,
all these bits of rope will form one long one,
connecting Base Camp to the summit.
That summit has never left Bernard's mind since
he first saw it. But just reaching the top is
not enough. He has to make it there and then
back. He is keeping a spot in his backpack for
something intangible: a taste for life. In a
few weeks, far above the clouds, he will be
filled with wonder... once again.
|
24.03.99
Wednesday |
We
meet up with Dorjee. Kathmandu.
We are presented with a necklace of real flowers.
Bernard savours this moment, finally rejoining
the friend with whom he will touch the sky, up
there on the roof of the world. |
25.03.99
Thursday |
Check
list, check list, check list, permits, papers,
signatures, people to see and places to go and
things to buy... and we meet Prim Sherpa, our
Base Camp cook. |
26.03.99
Friday |
Dorjee
bought prayer flags, rice, incense, twigs, etc.,
for the religious ceremony planned for the Base
Camp. Blessing by a Tibetan monk at a monastery
in Kathmandu. We met our friend Fausto De Stefani,
the illustrious Italian mountaineer who has
climbed the world's 14 mountains higher than
8 000m. He was going to join his compatriot
and climbing companion Sergio Martini, who will
be attempting to add Everest as the last jewel
in his prestigious collection. Bernard climbed
with them in 1997. |
29.03.99
Monday |
The
Twin Otter takes us to the village of Lukla (2 800m).
Bernard meets up with Chwangba Sherpa. He will
help with transporting our equipment and setting
up the high-altitude camps. Just a few more km
to the village of Phakding, and we settle in at
Dorjee's. His wife, his son, in-laws and others
all share a meal with us. Tomorrow we leave for
the Base Camp. Bernard seems very happy, and very
focused. He is determined to pour all his energy
into climbing Everest. |
30.03.99
Tuesday |
Sitting
on a rock, Bernard watches Everest. Nothing could
distract him. We are still very far from the mountain,
and already he seems to be possessed. |
07.04.99
Wednesday |
We
are at 5 000 metres, two days away
from Base Camp. Everything is well, health-wise.
No problems with acclimatization. It is snowing,
not very warm, and blowing pretty hard around
Everest. All is fine with logistics. Once we're
at Base Camp it will be easier to communicate
with Montreal, since we'll be able to set up
our solar panels to give us power and recharge
our telephones.
We're walking slowly. Just twisting
an ankle on these rocky trails could put an
end to the climb. We're eating carefully and
keeping ourselves warm, too--catching a cold
would be disastrous! All along the way we meet
sherpas we know from the 97 expedition.
|
10.04.99
Saturday |
We're
at Base Camp, 5 400m. We set up the
tents, inspect our equipment and assemble the
solar energy system. Dorjee is very busy checking
the hundreds of kg of materials brought up by
the yaks. A cold night, Everest, the Icefall...
here we are again. |
12.04.99
Monday |
We
meet the other teams. The Base Camp is turning
into a real village. Already there are about a
hundred people here, and we're expecting others.
The sherpas are busy building the altar for the
Buddhist ceremony called Puja, planned for a few
days from now. |
14.04.99
Wednesday |
We
rise very early. The sherpas are busy getting
everything ready for the Puja ceremony. Here
we go, the Lama is here and the prayer starts.
The Lama recites for two hours, facing Everest.
Tea and cookies are served. It's a festive atmosphere.
I dare to hope that the prayers will protect
Dorjee, Chwangba and Bernard. The ceremony ends
with a blessing, of the climbers themselves,
their crampons and their ice picks. Prayer flags
float over our campsite. Now everything is in
place to begin the acclimatization climbs.
 |
16.04.99
Friday |
4
a.m. Night-time. The noise of the stoves
wakes us up. We rise and start getting ready.
Bernard forces himself to eat. I can feel that
he is ready to begin the long climb--it may last
as much as a month. I accompany him to the foot
of the glacier. Dorjee is wearing exactly the
same clothes as in 1997. Our tents are at least
500 m from the glacier. We have to cross a number
of campsites. Some other climbers are getting
ready, too. Dorjee and Bernard pull on their crampons,
and I tell him simply: "Be careful."
I know just how dangerous climbing through the
Icefall can be. I know that many climbers have
lost their lives there. There are crevasses, toppling
seracs, ladders to climb across... in 1997, they
even found pieces of equipment from the first
Canadian expedition to climb Everest, in 1982,
at the foot of the Icefall. Some of the members
of that expedition died in the attempt. I return
slowly to our tents; from this moment on, I'll
keep the walkie-talkie with me at all times. It's
my only link with Dorjee and Bernard. I will still
have to bear long periods of waiting, but I remain
confident. |
19.04.99
Monday |
They
are back at Base Camp. Everything went
well. The first acclimatization phase is finished.
So far our strategy is working perfectly. In 97,
Bernard had to cross the Icefall 12 times--much
too often. So they decided to sleep at Camp I
right from the first ascent and then to head up
to Camp II with a light load and return to Camp
I to sleep there before coming back down. Bernard
is tired, but very upbeat. Dorjee has joined his
sherpa friends for an interminable card game.
A few days of rest and preparations for the second
acclimatization phase. |
21.04.99
Wednesday |
From
the meal tent, I can see a group of trekkers approaching
our camp. I immediately recognize one of Bernard's
old friends, André. Bernard is astonished,
and runs up to grab André in hug. It's
a touching scene, lots of smiles and a few tears.
We knew that a group of André's friends
was thinking of coming to the Base Camp, but André
was supposed to remain in a village much lower
down in the valley. Just one year ago he had suffered
a serious heart attack. André and Bernard
had crossed Baffin Island together in 1978. He
was a renowned mountain-climber, who had racked
up many climbs in the Rockies, the French Alps
and, especially, a winter ascent of Cap Trinité.
So we all talked and talked... |
22.04.99
Thursday |
A
long meeting with Goran Krop and his friend Renata.
We are sharing the same campsite at the Base Camp,
and we're thinking of organizing our summit attempt
together. Goran reached the top in 96, after riding
his bike all the way from Stockholm to Kathmandu!
He's an excellent climber, and always in a wonderful
mood. He is surrounded by a team of a photographer,
journalist and co-ordinator. His goal is to support
Renata as she tries to become the first Swedish
woman to reach the roof of the world. He doesn't
know whether he'll try again himself. We trade
maple syrup for raspberry jam. |
23.04.99
Friday |
They've
left for the second acclimatization phase, planning
to reach Camp III at 7 400m and spend one
night there. Even before our cook, Prim,
has lit the stoves, we join Dorjee where he is
praying at the altar. He is burning juniper branches
and throwing rice into the sky. I can see that
even sherpas still have a deep-rooted fear of
climbing in the high mountains. The sun is shining
on the Icefall, and I can see two little black
dots in the middle of the huge blocks of ice.
The morning light is so magnificent that I settle
down with my pencils and my notepad to make a
few sketches. Photos, videos and notes. Chwangba
comes back to the Base Camp; he had gone to take
some equipment up to Camp II. Everything seems
to be going well. He met Dorjee and Bernard on
their way to Camp II. Bernard is always the first
to leave the Base Camp; he doesn't want to be
in the Icefall in the bright sun, because of the
heat and the danger of avalanches and seracs toppling
over. Today, some huge avalanches came near the
Base Camp, but fortunately they were on a neighbouring
mountain. I just can't get used to these rumbling
noises. I hear falling stones and snow day and
night. Let's hope Everest holds onto its snow... |
26.04.99
Monday |
They
made it to Camp III yesterday and spent the night
there. Acclimatization at Camp III is very
important, and it will give them a good idea of
what awaits them. If they can manage to doze and
eat a bit there it will give them strength for
the tremendous efforts ahead. They're back at
Camp II now. Bernard told me all about the ascent
by walkie-talkie. His tent
is 100m farther up than in 97, at 7 400m.
So he is closer to the famous Yellow Band (yellowish
rocks) he will have to climb when he heads for
the summit. He told me that he had reached Camp
II in six and a half hours, directly from the
Base Camp. Goran Krop nicknamed him the "Canadian
Train," because he never stops! Bernard seems
to confident and determined, so happy to be by
himself with Dorjee. His acclimatization is very
good, even excellent. He tells me that Dorjee
suggested that they spend the night at Camp III,
which no sherpa ever agrees to do. They ate, but
very little. There were b gusts of wind, but nothing
else. They had a great view of the upper reaches
of Everest, and there they could see the wind
blowing with unimaginable force. It's still too
early in the season for any climber to hope to
reach the the summit. We hope that the jet stream
will shift to the north so that they can make
an attempt on May 10 or 15. It will be too late
by the end of May, for the monsoons will leave
heavy snows up on the mountain. |
27.04.99
Tuesday |
I'm
waiting for them at the foot of the Icefall.
I'm sitting on a rock and trying to pick them
out in the distance from the other climbers.
I always bring the video and the camera with
me, along with cold juice for Bernard and hot
tea for Dorjee. I would love to be able to see
the Valley of Silence between Camp I and Camp
II across from Lhotse. From here at the Base
Camp you can't even see Camp I. A huge shoulder
of Everest even cuts off the view of the summit.
You have to walk for hours before you can see
the whole route and if I did that, I would be
too far from Base Camp, if anything were to
happen to Bernard and Dorjee.
Even from the Base Camp, though, the view is
breathtaking. I get up early to marvel at the
sights in the early morning light. By early
afternoon the sun is beating down, and I allow
myself a (long) nap. I manage to sleep deeply.
The altitude (5 400m) doesn't bother me
much any more. I love the primitive nature of
the place, the whole environment. I feel good
here. The only little problem is the toilets...
As for bathing, I've solved the dilemma. Our
cook, Prime, boils up a large basin of water,
and I take it into the tent with me. It's quite
comfortable. Bernard always told me that a large
tent at Base Camp makes day-to-day life easier.
He's quite right. I can even stand up in our
tent.
There they are, I can see them now. Whew. I
worry so much every time they cross the Icefall.
|
29.04.99
Thursday |
Second
rest day back at Base Camp. Dorjee is doing
his laundry, Bernard and I are taking inventory
of our equipment, because now there is material
at Camps I, II and III. The logistics are getting
more complicated. Everything has to be ready for
an attempt on the summit. You can feel the excitement
here at the Base Camp. Everyone is revved up.
It's not even May yet, and already people are
talking about the summit. Some people are saying
that the window of good weather will come earlier
this year, and that conditions could be right
in just a few days. Some climbers, who have had
more trouble acclimatizing, are becoming pessimistic,
for they still haven't reached Camp III. People
are dashing from one tent to another, all the
computers are plugged in to get the weather reports.
Bernard is calm. I hardly recognize him, the guy
who is usually chatting with everybody. He sits
there, watching the mountain, its clouds, as though
he were listening. He's not worried in the least
about the strategies that the other climbers are
devising. I know that he wants to reach the summit,
that he wants it more than anything, but I'm surprised
and happy at his attitude. Yves (Laforêt)
told him to focus his energy, and it looks as
though he understood! |
30.04.99
Friday |
They're
off again. At 4:30 a.m., Bernard, Dorjee
and Chwangba left Base Camp. Last night, after
endless consultations with teams and sherpas,
they decided to make an attempt for the summit.
We were all expecting to rest for at least eight
days, but the weather seems to be turning favourable.
They're taking a risk, but they're ready for the
attempt. Only two days of rest between the second
acclimatization phase and the final assault doesn't
seem like very much to me. I really hope Bernard
has rested enough. This morning, Dorjee reminded
me several times that I had to burn juniper wood
all night long on the night they were heading
for the summit. Before he left, Bernard hugged
me, hard. Some tears. He promised me he would
be careful, and would always remember that success
means reaching the summit and coming back alive.
They pulled on their crampons, and I quickly lost
sight of them in the icy maze. |
2.05.99
Sunday |
They
have reached Camp III (7 400m).
A short message, because we're trying not to
use up the batteries. Bernard described the
weather and the cold, his shortness of breath
and loss of appetite, and above all his determination.
Tomorrow will be all new for him, because it
was there, at Camp III, that the storms pushed
them back twice. Goran, Renata and their team
are camped at the same site. They got there
a few hours later. Bernard was very fast. That
reassures me--in the high mountains, speed is
a key asset.

|
3.05.99
Monday |
They're at Camp IV (8 000m).
Another short conversation. Everything is going
well. He tells me that climbing the Yellow Band
and the Geneva Spur was much harder than he
expected. He had to describe for me the view
of Nupste. It's still blowing up on the summit
ridge. I encouraged him to drink and to try
to relax, for they will be leaving in a few
hours, in the middle of the night, to attempt
the summit.
10 p.m. I call
them to tell them that the latest weather forecasts
are predicting higher winds, and that they should
give up the idea of making an attempt tonight.
He tells me he already had his boots on. I insist
and insist. I ask him to call me back in 30
minutes.
10:30 p.m. They're
not going. The different expeditions at the
South Col and the sherpas have decided not to
budge. I could tell he was terribly disappointed.
I wish him good night, knowing that he won't
sleep a wink. Remember to drink.
|
4.05.99
Tuesday |
6 a.m. I spoke to him again. They spent a horrible,
sleepless night--and so did I. Many teams are
getting ready to come back down. They figure
the weather won't improve. Bernard's group has
decided to stay and make an attempt tomorrow
night. Goran and Renata are staying, too, as
are some Americans, Mexicans, an English group...
At 8 000m,
there is so little oxygen that climbers sometimes
have trouble speaking clearly. Bernard seems
coherent to me. I'm sure, I have confidence
in him. I suggest that he get out of the tent,
and walk around a bit. We're going to speak
again at 7 p.m.
7 p.m. He walked
along the South Col, and tells me that he went
all the way to Tibet! The Col seems to be a
deserted place--half pebbles and half snow.
The wind is dropping off. Decision time at 10
p.m.
10:05 p.m. They
going to attempt the summit. Bernard is getting
ready. Dorjee and Chwangba are already outside,
preparing the oxygen regulators and bottles.
Bernard reminds me that Dorjee insisted I keep
a juniper wood fire going all night. I tell
him "Good luck, be careful, I love you."
|
5.05.99
Wednesday |
All night long, I walk back and forth from my tent to the kitchen tent, clutching
the walkie-talkie. Prim has stayed up, too.
The stoves keep burning all night. Our friend
Iniaki (a famous Basque climber) joins me. He
encourages me and tells me over and over that
Bernard will make it. He offers to keep me company
during this interminable wait. He runs off to
other campsites and brings back news. Everything
seems to be going well, but very slowly, because
they are the very first teams to try this year,
and have to install fixed ropes in a few places.
They are at the Balcony
(8 500m). The sun is up, everything
is OK. The juniper wood is burning, and I'm
gulping coffee after coffee. All over the camp,
people are huddled around their walkie-talkies.
Everybody is waiting. I'm sure he'll succeed.
They have reached the
South Summit (8 700m). Iniaki tells
me "You see, they're almost there."
Maybe he thinks I don't know the route. From
the South Summit there is that very narrow and
exposed ridge, then the famous Hillary Step,
an 8-metre vertical climb up a rock face. Many
climbers have turned back when faced with that
obstacle. I know that this part of the ascent
is horrendously dangerous. There are still some
corpses there. I trust in Bernard's experience,
though. With Dorjee, he is confident. As for
Chwangba, this is his first summit attempt.
It's taking so long, where are they?
My walkie-talkie starts to crackle. It's Dorjee,
I can hear him cry "Nathalie, Nathalie,
SUMMIT, SUMMIT, SUMMIT!"
Hurray! Iniaki jumps, yells, grabs me. Goran's
team is celebrating, too. They must have reached
the summit together. I look up toward the clouds.
I'm breathless with joy, my heart is up there
with them. It's 12:10.
12:50. Bernard says
he's coming back down... I'm still afraid.
I know that climbing back down is even more
dangerous. After 13 hours of climbing they are
exhausted, and their euphoria at succeeding
can distract them. Most accidents occur on the
way back down. I'll be nervous and worried until
I know they've reached Camp IV. Another six
hours of clasping the walkie-talkie and jumping
whenever it makes any kind of noise. Many climbers
come over to our tents to congratulate us. Bernard,
Dorjee and a few other climbers are the first
to reach the summit this year.
6 p.m. Camp IV.
Finally, now I can savour the victory. Bernard
tells me he is happy. He will try to rest, even
crammed together all three of them in their
tent. I return to my tent and tumble into a
deep sleep.
|
7.05.99
Friday |
Iniaki,
his friend Rachel and I are sitting on a rock
at the foot of the Icefall, waiting. I just
want him to get off that glacier. The crevasses
are just as wide and just as dangerous, whether
they've reached the summit or not. Ladders,
avalanches, toppling seracs... anything could
happen. They take a lot longer this time. They
must be worn out. The juice is cold, the tea
is hot, all we're missing is them.
They appear from around a serac, advancing
slowly with trembling steps. They've made it.
They succeeded.
|
10.05.99
Monday |
Everything
is packed up, the yaks are loaded, the kitchen
tent is taken down. The place is a heap of stones
again. The celebrations and congratulations and
praise have been continuing since they returned.
Many climbers who didn't make it to the summit
come by for advice and encouragement. Making it
to the summit in early May is pretty fast. People
watch us enviously as we pack our bags--even with
a bit of jealousy, they admit. Goran, Renata and
their team are packing up, too, and we'll leave
together. Bernard is too tired at the moment,
but he promises to tell me all the details of
the climb during the trek. I'm eager to hear about
it, but mostly I'm happy for them. Our strategy
worked well. No injuries, no troubles at all.
A perfect expedition. This was Dorjee's fourth
successful summit. He is gaining a growing reputation
as one of the best sherpas around. Bernard has
lost weight. He is a bit concerned about the trek
back. His breathing is short and fast, but he
is so happy. Every twenty steps he turns around
to look back at the Base Camp, to scan the Icefall
and watch for avalanches. A number of our friends
will be making their own attempts at summit in
the days and weeks to come. He has stopped again,
he is looking back at Everest again. He's still
there. |
13.05.99
Thursday |
The
helicopter has finally arrived. We were waiting
for it yesterday. Goran's team chartered the helicopter
with us, to take us directly from Syangboche to
Kathmandu. The rhododendrons are blooming, everything
smells green, and a storm appears to be blowing
over Everest. |
17.05.99
Monday |
After
days of negotiations, faxes, telephone calls and
meetings, we finally get a visa for Dorjee. |
20.05.99
Thursday |
DORVAL.
The doors open, I see the faces of relatives and
friends crowd around. Out of a long box, Dorjee
pulls necklaces of real flowers, just like two
months ago. |
|
|
After his victory over Everest, Bernard
received many letters of congratulations from friends.
These great adventurers share a common passion, the
constant desire to seek new
challenges.
|
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27.10.97
Monday |
CONCLUSION
I feel as if I'm still there.
Still out of breath, thinking back on our last
attempt. So high, and so close to our goal,
held nearly motionless by the storm, and I could
hear my heart beating. The wind managed to pierce
right through my clothing and blow frigid air
on my hopes. It cried out "turn back"
for long hours on end, and yet my feet continued
trudging forward. There, far above the clouds,
my eyes were locked on the peak, my hands gripped
the rope, my feet clung to the steep slopes
of bluish ice, and my dreams gave way to real
life. Time was passing, the surroundings were
constantly growing more magnificent. We climbed,
and the mountain waited. Increasingly violent
gusts of wind forced us to advance like crabs,
sides to the mountain so as to present our backs
to the peak and the wind. Dorjee remained close
by me, but I couldn't see his eyes, hidden away
deep inside his hood. His movements, like mine,
were in slow motion. His firm and determined
steps inspired me to keep going. I could feel
the life just next to me, and I needed it. The
wind was howling more loudly all the time. I
felt "the impossible." I wanted to
keep trying, just one more step, just a bit
higher. But one gesture, one wave of the hand,
was enough to stop me. A simple half turn, to
face back down the mountain, was enough to change
my life. Before I turned, just for a moment,
with my face into the wind I gazed at the peak.
I'll see you again soon.

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To
find out all about the 1997 Everest expedition,
read the 97 expedition
log. |
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